Out of the host of new wines which we have welcomed into our range this year, there is one unsung character which really deserves a special mention. Biferno, from Camillo de Lelis, is a most unlikely star. When Sergio first plonked it in a line up of the usual Barolo, Barbera, and other stars, my first thought was 'where did this get dredged up from?! Biferno's label looks like something out of the 70's. Possibly the 1670's. But that, as you discover when you taste it, is actually part of the appeal. If there's such a thing as a retro wine style, Biferno is it. But it doesn't hark back in a negative way - no oxidation, VA or rusty tannin. It is as smooth as you like, with 6 years bottle maturation having taken any rough edges off. But it just feels like a wine from a time when people just made the wine that they wanted to make, that they knew how to make, without tipping the wink to every fashion or critics points. And interestingly, at every tasting where it's been shown, dear old Biferno has won the most hearts.
Biferno, my new best friend.