This small, family-owned producer in the town of Kesten on the banks of the Mosel River is redolent with history: the ecclesiastical St-Paulin estate was involved in vine growing as early as AD 936, records suggest.
The famed Brauneberger Juffer vineyard, named as the top site in the Mosel in Napoleon’s 1804 classification, also has religious overtones. ‘Juffer’ means ‘maidens’ in the local Moselle dialect and, reputedly, the original vineyard was indeed planted by a trio of nuns.
Since the 1960s, the Jünglings have worked nine hectares of dizzyingly steep vineyards here, combining the ideal topography with classic Devon slate soils, venerable Riesling vines and small yields to produce wines of sublime quality.
These are Rieslings that move with the times as well: Christa and Oliver Jüngling’s Kabinett has evolved into a richer, fruitier style in line with the changes to nature wrought by climate change. Meanwhile, the drier styles are achieving new levels of opulence, not least in the Spätlese Trocken – the rich intensity of which epitomises the best of 21st century Mosel.
Other wines by this producer
Light gold colour with hints of green. Spicy aromas of orange peel and bergamot. Dry on the palate with expressive seam of minerality, herbs, gooseberries and rhubarb leading to a long finish.
Straw yellow with a bouquet of orange blossom and lemon rind. On the palate it is dry with powerful minerality, acidity and grapefruit notes. Long, spicy finish.
This is classic Mosel Riesling with a fresh lemony fragrance on the nose. In the palate there is an amazingly complex balance of many different factors - fresh acidity and off-dry sweetness - slate driven mineral texture and low alcohol - fresh fruit and a deep oily complexity. Poise and depth.